Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology 2018;24(5):1051-1062.
Published online October 31, 2018.
남성 디스커넥션커트(Disconnectioncut)에 나타난 해체주의 분석 토니앤가이(TONI&GUY)의 2001~2017년 컬렉션 중심으로
임현순, 이순재
Deconstructivism Analysis in Men's Disconnectioncut: Focused on Years 2001 to 2017 Collections by Toni and Guy
Hyeon-sun Lim, Soon-jae Lee
Abstract
The disconnectioncut became popular after the 1980s by suggesting free styles, which stand in contrast to the organized lines of the traditional cuts. Architecture and hair design - a part of the modeling environment surrounding humans - have the common point that they are directly related to human life. In this regard, the purpose of this study is analyzing the modeling characteristics of de-constructivism architecture, through which the concept of disconnection was specified, and analyzing the characteristics of disconnectioncut that appeared in men's hairstyle by Toni and Guy ranging from years 2001 to 2017. The empirical research on 195 hairstyles based on the modeling characteristics through literature review was also conducted. The study results are the following. First, the combination of heterogeneous elements, free curves, and wave forms which appeared in the de-constructivism architecture could also be found in disconnectioncut and aesthetic value was diversified through it and it was being applied as a hairstyling element. Second, as a result of analyzing the modeling characteristics, they were divided into overlapping form, atypical form, and play of form. Overlapping form is being expressed as discontinuous directions which are shown by hair length difference and heterogeneous textures. Also, atypical form is being expressed through hair length differences that display a distinct boundary centered on asymmetric form and crest line. Play of form displayed a disconstructive characteristic by obscuring the boundary after cutting a part as if making a scratch or carving. Third, when examining the characteristics of men's disconnection style by Toni and Guy, overlapping form is shown as multiple increase layers prior to 2005 whereas atypical form characteristic as an asymmetrical form increase layers are shown after 2005. After 2008, interior back changed through graduation. Since 2005, the exterior section shifted from increase layer to graduation and fade haircuts drastically increased from 2008. After 2010, graduation and paid cut showed the atypical form characteristic of area being divided by hair length difference. After 2015, the playful characteristic which has vague boundaries stood out. This study analyzed the design characteristics of men's cut. It was meaningful in the sense that this study can be used as the basic data for suggesting new styles.
Key Words: De-constructivism, Disconnectioncut, Men's hairstyle, Overlapping form, Toni&guy
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